DynamoShang
Guide · 01
Home charging basics
The setup that usually makes (or breaks) EV running costs.
If you can charge at home, an EV is often cheaper to run than petrol. If you mostly use rapid public chargers, the maths can flip. This guide is the short version of what to decide before you commit to hardware.
1. 3-pin granny cable vs wallbox
- 3-pin (emergency) cable: slow (often ~2–3 kW). Fine for low mileage or temporary use. Uses a normal socket — not ideal as a permanent high-use solution.
- Dedicated wallbox (typically 7 kW): overnight full charges for most cars. Cleaner install, safer continuous load, often smarter scheduling for off-peak tariffs.
Rule of thumb: if this is your daily car and you have off-street parking with power nearby, plan for a proper charger.
2. What your home needs
- Off-street parking where a cable can reach without a trip hazard.
- Consumer unit capacity — an electrician will confirm load headroom.
- Route for cable — garage wall, driveway post, or exterior mount.
- Permissions — flats, rented homes, and listed buildings need extra checks.
3. Questions for installers
- Is a fuse board upgrade required? At what price?
- Tethered cable vs socket — which fits my car and parking?
- Does the unit support load balancing / solar if I add panels later?
- Smart scheduling for economy tariffs — app or open standards?
- Warranty, OZEV / grant eligibility (where applicable), and aftercare.
4. Tariffs beat hardware tweaks
A mid-range charger on a strong off-peak rate often beats a premium charger on a flat expensive rate. Before upgrading hardware, model your annual kWh in the EV Cost Comparison with your real pence-per-kWh.
5. When public charging is still fine
No driveway, workplace charging, or low annual miles can make public-first ownership work. Just run the numbers honestly — see public charging reality check.